As usual, before I write about a tool on ToolboxBlog.com, I do a bit of online research to see what other’s are saying. Thanks to Ron’s Woodshop, I learned a little about the number system with this old Yankee driver. If Ron is correct, the number 1 in the model No. 133 indicates this driver has a spring. So, it is a model 33 with a spring, making it No. 133H.
I do recommend checking out Ron’s page on Yankee drivers solely for the video at the end where, neglecting to pre-drill, he struggles to drive screws into a board with two Yankee drivers. I watched the video because it says for the “bloody-minded” but I never did see him rip any skin. Oh well, I don’t really like horror movies anyway and I’ve ripped more skin in a year than the average human does in a decade. 

Description:
My Yankee Handyman No. 133H is a fine example of a working push drill. This one has the description printed on the shaft: Yankee Handyman No. 133H, North Bros Mfg Co, Div of Stanley Tools, Phila. Pa. U.S.A.

Experience:
I’ve added a few Yankee drivers from my workshop to ToolboxBlog.com already; The North Bros. 130A, and two Miller’s Falls push drills; 185A and this one. I should retract my dated statement that I don’t use these in my shop because since 2009, I’ve experimented with restoring a few pieces of antique furniture using only tools that predate my birth (antiques), including my useful Millers Falls Antique Push Drill.

Comments:
This Yankee Handyman shows a bit of age, but still operates smoothly despite the bent bit that’s in it at the time the photos were taken. It belonged to my father and I’ve since inherited it and added it to my rack of old tools. I hope you enjoyed the photos and brief description. Thanks for visiting.

Shortly after I reviewed the 2011 Klein-Kurve Wire Stripper I was in my shop cleaning up and clearing out some tools I haven’t used in a while when I came across my old, and I mean really old, Klein side cutters. This pair of M Klein & Sons lineman’s pliers I inherited decades ago.

Rating: 5 out of 5 stars

Description:

This Klein tool was made in the USA and is stamped: M. Klein & Sons, Chicago. U.S.A. on the one side and the other is simply stamped 201-8NE. (NE for New England nose) This is a weighty pair of lineman’s pliers with a very solid feel. They are head-heavy. The ‘checkering’ on the gripping jaws is superior. There is minimal side-play to the pivot. Though ‘retired’, this is a magnificent tool that I’ve used 100′s of times and still keep handy in a drawer of ‘pliers’ for use in my shop.

Experience:
I keep a pair of Channel Lock lineman’s pliers in my red toolbox that I use regularly. I keep a short list of tools I’d like to own, when I come up with the money. On the top of the list is a new pair of lineman’s. Writing this article, I found the pair I’m leaning toward: The Klein Tools D213-9NE 9-Inch High Leverage Side Cutting Plier for my next duty pliers. (The Klein 2000 series is markedly tougher, good for cutting hardened fasteners and only a few bucks more for the Klein D2000-9NE .)

The Channel Lock pliers in the photo below I bought in 1990 while building concrete forms and tying rebar for seismic upgrades on the West Coast. Those Channel Lock’s are the Ironworker style and after 20 years they’re still going strong.

Comments:
I gave these pliers 5-stars simply because, despite their age, they are just as usable today as the day they were manufactured. Sure they could use some (modern) insulation on the handles but I’m pretty sure these were made before plastic and I’m not going to hold that against them today. I mentioned the excellent and long-lasting checkering on the jaws, the lack of any noticeable play to the pivot and the solid feel. They can be very slippery when wet.
Did I mention I’ve used these as a hammer?

Links:
You can find little info on the history of Klein Tools on their website: KleinTools.com.

You can find excellent prices on new Klein Tools on Amazon.com.

I look forward to owning the Klein Tools D213-9NE Side Cutting Plier or the Klein 201-7CST Ironworker’s Work Pliers

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I really like this little scraper. It’s a dangerous little beast and can cut through most finishes, if not most materials. I’m certain if Carry Underwood dug the Bahco scraper into the side of her boyfriend’s suped-up 4-wheel drive it would have been irreparable.

Rating: 5 out of 5 stars 

Experience:
I reviewed the Sandvik/Bahco Carbide Scraper in 2009. These scrapers are some of my favorite tools and I use them often. I have three of the Bahco scrapers and appreciate the strength, positive grip and effective performance. The Bahco detail scraper has a small triangular carbide tip that can be rotated if one side of the triangular blade dulls. The precise corners of this blade allow it to access the smaller detail lines of window dividers, crown moulding or casings and it digs deep into most any material.

Comments:
Use of this tool comes with a cautionary note: Be careful not to damage or destroy the woodwork by using too much force. It’s an effective tool for removing unwanted finish in the hard to access crevices of wood trim.
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Some day I’ll find an old car that I can prove my opening comment on.

Links: Bahco 625 Premium Ergonomic Carbide Scraper.

As a carpenter, my job includes a little of everything but most of the wire pulling, stripping and connecting on a job site is left to the electricians. As a handyman, though, the tasks of the electrician are commonplace and buying the correct tool for a job increases one’s efficiency and productivity.

Rating: 3 out of 5 stars 

Experience:

Those who know… know Klein Tools are some of the best in the electrician’s bag and these Klein-Kurve strippers are no exception. I spent more than a decade with my rusty, well-used Stanley 84-199 Electrical Stripper Pliers before losing them along the way. Since I’ve been doing so many outlets, Cat-5 and phone lines I decided to spend $5 more for a professional tool: The Klein 11055 Klein-Kurve Wire Stripper/Cutter.

Comments:

To those using Klein Tools these are a quality wire stripper made in the USA. They’re a pleasure to use compared to the economical pair I used for so many years but they have a simple issue that’s annoying as can be: The handle lock constantly locks… or unlocks on it’s own. As you squeeze the handles the lock catches and they don’t open. When drop them in my tool pouch the lock releases and they spring open, hence the less than perfect rating. [Maybe I could bend the lock mechanism so it’s tighter but I risk making it too tight and would have to unbend them.. so… from the factory – this pair sucks. They work great as stripper/cutters but the lock mechanism is a real pain in the …

Summary:

There is nothing like owning professional tools. I would recommend Klein Tools to homeowners and professional alike. Sometimes the cost doesn’t match the task at hand, as was the case for me working on a vacation home so I saved money when purchasing wire cutters at the Depot buying the 9″ Commercial Electric brand for $15 instead of the Kleins for $45.

Links:

It’s interesting how some of the tools I appreciate the most I didn’t anticipate owning. Certain tools, like the odd-shaped blade with the dark wood handle, find their way into your shop and take a favorite spot.

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Blades:
That odd-shaped blade with a wood handle is a nineteenth century ink erasure and quill sharpener made by Miller Brothers Cutlery Company between 1872-1926. I own two of them and find them dangerously useful.

With an individual X-ACTO Knife in different specialty toolboxes, two are always within reach. (Picking up the X-ACTO Blade Dispenser was almost as smart as buying the Stanley Utility Knife Blade Dispenser.)

Swiss Army Knives:
If you saw what happened when TSA tried to take away my mother’s Swiss Army Knife you’d know she wasn’t the one who tossed her son’s Victorinox Camper in the jobsite dumpster. Since I found this one in the garbage, I don’t mind abusing it. Over 34 years ago I received my first Swiss Army Knife (a Tinker) and couldn’t count how many Victorinox knives I own today.

Unfortunately for the Victorinox Classic without scales, it was on the keychain that I left on a scorching stovetop burner for 20 minutes. I still haven’t come up with the $400 they want to replace my truck’s keyless entry. Scales or not, I still find this ‘classic’ useful.

Beauty & Health:
Something every woodworker knows well about is the tweezer. Here, amongst my most reached for tools are three pair. The Tweezerman LTD Point Tweezer I HIGHLY recommend owning. These are precision ‘point’ tweezer, so sharp you can slice your skin to get at the intruder. (When these are too small, I use Uncle Bill’s Sliver Gripper Tweezers that didn’t make the photo.) The other set shown is rusty and barbaric and I use them for projects. The last thing they did (yesterday) was hold a battery contact while I soldered it back in place.

Two vintage health and beauty aids including a Revlon Stainless finger nail file and a small vintage screwdriver are also among the frequently used workbench tools in my shop.

Can you guess what’s in my toolbox?

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In preparation for an upcoming snowstorm I took the aluminum job box off my truck. After emptying the various tools, tool boxes, bags, ropes, cords, fasteners and a pile of debris I lifted the aluminum box off my truck and set it on blocks for storage. I remember needing a wrench from my red toolbox to remove some chains fastened in the truck bed… Two days later I noticed the aluminum box was open and filled with snow.

Not only did I leave the job box open, exposing most of my every day tools to the storm but I left my red toolbox open inside the job box.

I brought the toolbox inside and dumped ‘em out to dry.

A little steel wool and some WD-40 and we’re good to go.

What’s unbelievable to an experienced contractor? A sub-$200 full featured sliding compound miter saw with a laser guide, that’s what! Despite it’s incredibly low-cost I wasn’t too excited to be buying another compound miter saw since I own three of this type of, my most important, saw. An away-from-home project in a remote area on the eastern front of the Rocky Mountains called for some new tools and I couldn’t be more impressed with features-for-the-price of this Ryobi TSS101L Sliding Compound Miter Saw with Laser.

Rating: 4.5 out of 5 stars

Description:

• Heavy-duty 13 Amp motor for demanding applications
• 10 in. carbide-tipped blade provides a smooth, clean cut
• Easy-to-read scales on mitre table, mitre fence, and bevel for added convenience
• 9 positive mitre stops with ball and detent action for precision cuts
• Electric brake stops the blade in seconds for enhanced safety
• Right and left table extensions provide extra support when working with longer pieces
• Spindle lock for easy single-wrench blade changes
• Dust bag helps keep work area clean
• Exactline laser guide gives you a cut reference line
• 6 ft. cord provides Amp le reach
• Ergonomic handle with overmold for added user comfort
• MFG Brand Name : Ryobi
• MFG Model # : TSS100L
• MFG Part # : TSS101L

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Experience:

I’m currently using the Makita LS1013LS as my primary compound miter saw, with my old Bosch 3915 as a backup in my shop. The Bosch has been a solid performer and long lasting with the Makita ranking high among my favorite, smoothest, precision tools  in my collection. The Makita has broken in quite a few places whereas the Bosch was built with an inherit issue. Neither one is perfect but I do love that Makita smoothness but decidedly dislike the miter gauge location and function.

Moving on… I needed a saw to cut siding with and I didn’t have time or money to waste. With no budget for a new saw, I was forced to purchase something capable of making 8 1/4″ length cuts before nightfall.

It’s hard to imagine there’s a sliding compound miter saw for less than $200. [BTW: I hate when people say something is less than $200 when it's $199, but where I was working there is no sales tax and this saw actually cost less than $200, by $1, so I'm going with the catchy and truthful expression 'sub-$200'] Hard to imagine such a feature set for $200, I think so… but this is what I found at the nearby [96 miles round-trip] Home Depot. There really wasn’t another option within a hundred bucks that could make long cuts. I dragged this new Ryobi to my truck without the slightest enthusiasm, threw it on the trailer, and headed back to the job to put it to immediate use.

Scary start! This isn’t the refined slow-start motor on my Makita. The Ryobi starts at a loud and scary full-RPM. It really seems to have high RPM and sounded rough, dangerous and slightly intimidating… but after several hundred cuts the intimidating sound faded away to the fact I was almost done with my work, thanks to this 10″ sliding miter saw.

Comments:

The Ryobi TSS101L doesn’t have a slow-start motor, it bevels in one direction like my saws of old, and I couldn’t possibly discern the ‘laser’ in daylight. The motor is loud and the mechanics aren’t what you’ll find on a $500 sliding compound miter saw but all-in-all this is one item where you are getting much more than you pay for.

Getting more than you pay for? You betcha. I set out to side a house by myself. Why.. because I couldn’t afford to hire someone to do it.. and I really couldn’t even afford to hire someone to help me. With a new sliding miter saw, new compressor and new nail gun, I’d spent my whole wad on tools and materials… but these three tool saved me thousands in time and labor.

My new Ryobi came with the blade already mounted. Basically, I pulled it out of the box, plugged it in and started cutting siding! Ordinarily I might spend some time adjusting the factory settings, making certain my saw is dead-on. I never checked it once… or rather my method for checking it’s 90-degree cut was to butt-join two 8 1/4″ cuts and continue right on.

After hundreds of cuts not a single ounce of dust was collected in the dust bag. I’m did take it off to see if there was some packing material in there but I guess it just doesn’t work at all. Who cares.

Summary:

The Ryobi TSS101L Sliding Compound Miter Saw with Laser is a solid purchase that reminded me of my start in the construction business. Back in the day when I was a teenager affording my first set of machinery, Ryobi came in the affordable box and several of those tools lasted nearly 20 years. Replaced but never forgotten, I owe a great deal to Ryobi for their entry-priced quality machines. Without exception this miter saw performed dutifully and respectfully. Over the course of the week, as the siding courses rose higher, I found myself wondering why I pay 3X as much for tools today. If I needed a table saw (darn it, I ripped all the window cuts and top and bottom pieces with a worm drive model 77.) I would without a question head right back to the depot for the $199 Ryobi table saw I noticed. There was a $119 model but for $199… I have no doubt when it comes time to trim out the interior of my little house out west, I’ll be budgeting for that professional 10″ Ryobi table saw next.

If you are wondering if this saw is good enough and you really are pinched for extra pennies – I give it a 5-star rating for performance for the price. Hell, at $199 you can afford three of them for the price of my duty saws. A great deal indeed. Homeowners, budget shoppers and youngsters starting out in the carpentry world should look no further than the Ryobi TSS101L Sliding Compound Miter Saw with Laser.

Links:

Factory-Reconditioned Ryobi ZRTSS100L 13 Amp 10-in Sliding Miter Saw with Laser at Amazon.com

The Ryobi TSS101L at Home Depot – This is the one I bought.

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Facing the daunting task of single-handedly siding my vacation home I knew if I didn’t break down and purchase a few “expensive” tools I’d likely never get the job done. With a tiny budget to afford my travel expenses and all the necessary building materials how could I afford a compound miter saw, air compressor and siding nailer without breaking the bank?

Rating: 4 out of 5 stars

For me, purchasing a new tool is by no means as straight-forward as walking in and plopping down cash for the best new shiny piece to come out of Detroit. (I wonder if there’s a Detroit, China) Just about every tool I buy goes through a process.. which may likely be why you’re reading this article …so begrudgingly buying a “siding” nailer to apply my fiber cement board siding wasn’t easy… or was it?

Cutting to the chase, I had two requirements: The gun must shoot 2″ galvanized ringshank nails that I could purchase locally (in the middle of nowhere) and the gun must have a protective plastic cap for the teeth if it’s not a dedicated siding nailer. A ‘local’ Home Depot had two affordable guns that met my requirements. Those two were NOT siding nailers but full-fledged framing guns. Dedicated siding nailers are closer to $300 but these framers were under $200 so my choice came down to a Porter-Cable ($179) or the Rigid ($199), affording me nails and a compressor within the cost of a single siding gun.

Specifications:

• Adjustable exhaust port : Yes
• Air Tool Type : Air Nailer
• Assembled Depth (in.) : 22.2 in
• Assembled Height (in.) : 6.3 in
• Assembled Width (in.) : 17.7 in
• Color Family : Orange
• Depth (in) : 22.62 in
• Fastener collation : Plastic
• Fastener depth control : Yes
• Fasteners included : No
• Height (in) : 5.46 in
• Item Package Type : Cardboard Container
• Item Weight : 12.1 lb
• Loading type : Strip
• Maximum fastener size (in.) : 3.5
• Minimum fastener size (in.) : 2
• Returnable : 90-Day
• Width (in) : 14.74 in

Experience:

If you read some of the articles on this site, you’ll know that I’m a Residential Home Improvement Contractor and my tools are my living. With that in mind, the decision to purchase a new tool is usually by demand and the product I choose has got to be “the very best” that I can afford at the time. Having the right tool for the job versus my limited funds can be a real predicament, especially when it came to choosing a siding nailer. Believe it or not, having an iPhone with the Amazon App works just as well in NYC as it does on horseback in the country. (assuming there’s cell coverage) I appreciate the Amazon iPhone App and RedLaser barcode scanner tremendously – Together I can see the best price and check availability, comparing one-day shipping costs with whatever I’ve found ‘in-store’ for a confident purchase.

Dedicated Siding Nailers are expensive. I know, I have one. With my choice limited to (2) readily-available sub-$200 framing nailers, I chose the Rigid for $20 more and after a week on the side of a house, I’m very pleased with my purchase.

This article may seem more about being a cheapskate than a RIGID R350RHD Framing Nailer Review but sometimes finding that tool within a budget is what it’s all about. A framing nailer is heavier, more difficult to manage and designed to take and deliver a pounding but it will handle the nails I’m going to use and the price is right.

I bought 2,000 nails @ 2 3/8″ since I was going through CertainTeed Siding then 1″ thick solid wood sheathing and hopefully into the circa 1900 original studs – those ought to hold ‘em. I set the compressor on about 80# output and dialed the gun’s setting way out until the nail depth was just right; pulling the siding tight, without penetrating the very soft cement board.

Comments:

I’m not sure if it’s just me, but the only gripe I had with this gun was the quantity of nails it would accept. Empty, I could get 3 strips into the feed but when a few nails remained I could only fit two strips. I felt like I was constantly holding up a 12′ board, by myself, only to find I was out of nails – and cursing!!! I fed that sucker a lot of nails and experienced only 3 or 4 misfires. The misfires stopped the job. With a bent nail stuck in the gun, I learned after the second one, there is a little metal door held in place by a thumb-screw which allows access for removing just such a foul-up. The RIDGID 3-1/2 in. Round Head Framing Nailer Model # R350RHD performed my siding task relatively flawlessly! I couldn’t have been happier with that well-spent $200.

Summary:

A few jams and a few misfeeds were the only issues I experienced in nearly 2000 shots. Trouble filling the gun to it’s max capacity kept me returning to re-fill constantly. (Perhaps that’s why most dedicated siding guns are coil nailers) Now I have a framing nailer to complete any remaining interior work. (most done by hand over the past year has me wondering why I didn’t pick this gun up a year ago but the reason is, a $20 hammer and $20 of nails is a lot cheaper than $500 of pneumatics.)

I can’t compare this with the Porter-Cable that was $20 less but the Rigid had a belt clip, a nice tip protector, a soft case, oil and worked very well out of the box. I feel it was light enough, precise enough and durable– because I dropped it more than once from the ladder, dragged it by the hose, lowered it by the hose and threw it around like I do everything else. [Wait a minute.. Do I own that Porter-Cable Framer already?]

I’d highly recommend this gun for someone looking to get the most for their money! Seriously, spending $200 on a gun, $100+ for a compressor and even hundreds more for a compound miter saw were not really in my budget but I couldn’t have gotten the job done without them and I’m very comfortable with my purchase.

Links:

Ridgid R350RHA 3-1/2-Inch Round Head Framing Nailer

What do you get when you whack weeds barefoot? Most likely you’ll get hurt badly, but if you’re lucky you’ll still have all your toes and your feet will just be a little banged up and covered with bits of grass – Never do as I do, nor as I say…

A small animal, perhaps a squirrel or some mice, ate a hole through my Echo Grass Trimmer’s fuel tank over the winter. When I pulled out my SRM-210 this spring it started right up! …And then I noticed gasoline sloshing out and dripping down the back of my leg. Oh no, there’s a large hole in the tank. Not a small pinhole, or a little damaged spot, but a 3/4″ wide-open hole that’s large enough for mice to have crawled inside for a long winter nap. What to do?

I tossed the weed whacker back in the shed and forgot about the problem… sometimes the motivation to order a part by mail can be lacking. Even if, my Echo SRM-210 is a good grass trimmer that has always started right up, works well and is easy to maintain. Unfortunately, I put off buying the part.

Plastic fuel tanks aren’t the kind of parts you should ‘repair’. Only problem is, I need this weed whacker today! Not in 3-days shipping, but right now, this morning, for work – so I’ve repaired a plastic fuel tank and I did a great job of it.

Here’s how I repaired the plastic fuel tank on my Echo SRM-210 Grass Trimmer.

• I removed the tank from the machine, cleaned it thoroughly and examined the damage.
[Plastic fuel tanks are made from a plastic that is not commonly glued. I tried two different epoxies I had on hand and neither bonded. They both leaked. Then it dawned on me... plastic melts.]

• I used a wood burner to melt the plastic a bit to see if I could ‘stretch’ excess over the wound, to little avail. The hole is too big.

• I took an extra gas cap, cut a piece of it to fit over the hole and started to melt it into place. Once secured, I carefully melted around the patch until it fused with the gas tank. In order to insure a seal I then pulled/scraped the hot blade toward the patch, drawing melted fuel tank material to ‘cover’ the patch edges.

It’s SOLID! and there is no way this patch will leak, it’s one and the same (although I’m pretty sure this cap was a different plastic, it wasn’t too far off and is a positive bond.)

I’m not recommending you try this anymore than I recommend weed-whacking without proper safety equipment. As I dress for work, despite 85º weather, I don pants, a long-sleeve shirt, socks and boots. I always wear safety glasses when using the grass trimmer.

What am I going to do with this grass trimmer today? I’m making a motorbike trail through some thick New England woods. Should be exciting!

Remember, never do as I say… or do.